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I am working my way up the edge of a shallow channel that cuts through a white sand flat and stretches farther than I can see. Behind me is a line of boiling surf where the Indian Ocean crashes onto the edge of the atoll. Earlier in the afternoon, I pulled two nice bonefish from this spot, but now the light is low, and I have little confidence in seeing another. Suddenly, 40 yards away, the water swirls and a massive blunt-nose head charges across the shallows, spray flying. Another swirl and it dawns on me: Something just died.

I drop the bonefish rod,